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Car won't start and engine turns

If your car won't start even though the starter motor turns as normal but does not fire up First check your fuel level, do you need to refill? Open your bonnet and check for any moisture on the electrical system, HT leads, distributor cap battery terminals are secure etc.  Wipe off any obviou...

Identifying leaks

Warning! Most car oils and fluids are poisonous. Make sure you wash tehm off the skin and change any contaminated clothes as soon as possible. If you find puddles underneath your car, or obvious wetness under the bonnet, this would suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be d...

Car won't start and engine fails to turn

If you try to start your engine and nothing happens and engine fails to turn, this could be a flat bettery. Often Flat batteries occure due to lights been left on the vehicle left parked up, other wise battery is in a very poor state or bad connections to the battery. In this small guide we will h...

Auto Guide UK Car help guide
Snow Driving PDF Print E-mail
Written by Jason Radley   
Thursday, 06 January 2011 21:12

Driving in snow

By Jason Radley

At some time we all have to drive in snow (well if we drive in winter!) here are some tips on how to avoid problems, and should the worst happen what to do if you get stuck in snow

Car in Snow<

Before you set off – what you need to check

Tyres Check your tyres are properly inflated (check with your car manual) and have the necessary tread depth (at least 3mm).

Battery During winter the battery is under more stress than in warmer conditions and so will run down much quicker. Ensure it is fully charged by either drive a long distance or trickle charge the battery.

Engine To reduce strain on the engine, depress the clutch when starting the engine.

Screen wash Ensure the screen wash is topped up and any anti-freeze additive is included, at the correct concentration.

Fuel Make sure your tank is topped up, should you be stuck you should have enough fuel to keep your car warm and make it home. Be careful though, should the exhaust be blocked by snow noxious fumes may enter the car.

Windscreen Remove all the snow and ice covering the windscreen. DO NOT use water, this can cause the screen to crack and would likely freeze later over the windscreen.

Locks Give the locks a squirt of WD40, this will prevent them from freezing up

Warm Clothes Although it is warm and toasty inside the car, the conditions outside will be very different, make sure you have gloves, hat and warm coat. Along with strong boots.

The driving bit

Remember when driving in snow that too high a speed risks the car going out of control, where as driving to slowly can mean losing momentum when you need it (like trying to get up a hill). Also, use the controls as smoothly as possible. Do not suddenly brake, accelerate or steer, this can cause the vehicle to go into a skid.

When starting off, begin gently, don’t use high revs. If necessary start in 2nd gear rather than first (if you have a manual gearbox). Should you find that you do enter a skid firstly take your foot off the accelerator and use steering to get out of the skid. Do not brake unless absolutely needed in order to control the skid and steering out of it hasn’t worked.

Your braking distances will be significantly increased (by 2 or 3 times) and so you should leave the needed distance between you and the vehicle in front. Also, your brakes will not be totally effective in icy conditions, do not completely rely on them.

When it comes to your journey, plan the route to take you via main roads where ever possible, these are the ones most likely to have been gritted and be clearer. Try not to use minor roads as short cuts, these are far less likely to be clear or gritted and the risk of something going wrong is much higher.

When driving on motorways stay in the clearest lane whenever possible, and also try to drive in the tyre tracks of previous vehicles which should be clear.

In falling snow have you dipped headlights on, to make you visible to other road users and pedestrians. If the visibility is particularly poor it may be necessary to use your fog lights. Remember though, that once visibility improves that you should turn off your fog light so as not to dazzle other road users.

Last Updated on Tuesday, 01 March 2011 20:14
 
Choosing your engine oil PDF Print E-mail
Written by Gary Dodsworth   
Sunday, 01 February 2009 15:31

Engines need oil, not only to lubricate moving parts and minimise wear, but also to maximise power output and to improve fuel economy. Another major function of oil in the engine is distribute heat away from hot spots created buy the combustions taking place from within the engine itself

How Engine oil works

Beating friction

Without oil, the moving surfaces inside your engine will rub together, heat up and melt, quickly causing the engine to seize. Engine oil creates a film which sperates these moving parts, preventing wear and heat build up.

Cooling hot spots

Temperatures inside the engine can exceed 1000 degrees celcius. The engine oil cirulates and acts as a coolant, transferring heat from the hot spots to the sump.

Cleaning the engine internally

Good quality engine oils clean the inside of your engine, collecting and dispersing combusion deposits and controlling them until they are trapped by the oil filter or flushed out by performing an oil change. For information on completing an oil change on your vehicle, please check in our guides and howto section

Oil care - follow the code

To handle and dispose of used engine oil safely, always:

Avoid skin contact with used engine oil. Repeated or prolonged contact can be harmful.

Dispose of used oil and empty packs in a responsible manner. To find your nearest authorised disposal site call 0800 663366. Never tip oil down drains or onto the ground.

Last Updated on Sunday, 01 February 2009 22:27
 
Identifying leaks
Written by Gary Dodsworth   
Sunday, 30 November 2008 13:56

Warning! Most car oils and fluids are poisonous. Make sure you wash tehm off the skin and change any contaminated clothes as soon as possible.

If you find puddles underneath your car, or obvious wetness under the bonnet, this would suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to identify exactly where the leak is coming from, especialy if the engine area is very dirty aready. Leaking oil or fluid can also be bown backwards by the flow of air under the car, giving you a false idea of where the problem is.

The smell of a fluid leaking from somewhere in the car could give you an indication as to what's leaking. Some liquids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some cean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. Please note, some leaks may only happen whilst the engine is running.

Possible leaks

  • Sump oil - Engine oil could leak from the drain plug.
  • Oil from filter - Engine oil could leak from the oil filter.
  • Gearbox oil - Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshaft.
  • Antifreeze - Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit.
  • Brake fluid - A leak occuring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.
  • Power steering fluid - Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.
Last Updated on Friday, 29 April 2011 15:40
 
Towing another vehicle
Written by Gary Dodsworth   
Sunday, 30 November 2008 14:12

Unfortuantly, no matter how well we look after our cars, it's possible you may find yourself needing a tow home (or to a garage), Or you may find yourself needing to tow a friend. Please note, long distance recovery should ony be done by a garage or breakdown service (such as The R.A.C. or A.A.). For shorter distances however, DIY Towing using another car is easy enough, but please observe the following points.

Use a proper tow-rope - they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ON TOW signin its rear window.

Always turn the ignition on when the vehicle is being towed, so that the stearing lock is released, and the indicators and break lights will work.

Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission.

If you have an automatic, special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow or transmission damage may result.

Note that the greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be needed to apply the breaks, this is due to the vacuum servo unit only being operational when the engine is running.

If you have power steering then please note that this also will require a greater effort, as the power steering is only operational once the ignition is running.

The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching.

Ensure both drivers know the route before setting off.

Only ever drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed at a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions.

A towing eye is supplied as a part of the vehicle tool kit. The towing eye should be found with the jack and wheelbrace in the luggage compartment.

To fit the towing eye, prise the cover from the relevent bumper, then screw the towing eye, anti-clockwise as far as it will go in. NOTE THE TOWING EYE HAS A LEFT HANDED THREAD. Tighten the towing eye with the wheelbrace.

Last Updated on Tuesday, 30 December 2008 23:29
 
How to jump start your car
Written by Gary Dodsworth   
Thursday, 27 November 2008 21:45

When you jump start a car using jump cables to another vehicle or a booster battery, please observe the following precautions.


REMEMBER WHEN DEALING WITH ELECTRICALS SAFETY MUST COME FIRST.

We have included a simple guide to help you safely jump start your vehicle using standard jump cables, like the ones available from Halfords, Motorama and other motor accessories stores Standard jump cables

Please note - always check the physical condition of your flat battery before carrying out any work, inspect for cracks and leaks, some batteries are have a visual acid level, if the level is too low this could be the result of a leak and jump starting your car will have no effect. Lead acid battery produce hydrogen gas which is highly flamable and caution is needed to avoid a spark that may ignite the gas.

Quick guide to Jump starting your vehicle

  1. Before connecting the Jump cables or booster battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.
  2. If using cables, ensure that the condition of the jump cables are in good condition prior to start the jump start
  3. Ensure that all electrical equipment (lights, heater, wipers etc) are turned off.
  4. Take note of any special precautions printed on the battery case.
  5. Make sure that the other vehicle or booster battery is the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.
  6. If the battery is being jump-started from the battery in another vehicle the two vehicles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.
  7. Make sure that the transmission is in neutral (or park, in the case of automatic transmission).
  8. Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery on your vehicle.
  9. Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the other vehicle or the booster battery.
  10. Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the other vehicle or the booster battery.
  11. Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on your engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.
  12. Ensure that the jump leads will not come into contact wtih the fan, drive belts or any other moving components.
  13. Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed.  Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.  Turn off lights etc.
Last Updated on Tuesday, 30 December 2008 23:31
 
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